Because the amplifiers do not use the same 12 volts, you ask? Yes, but with a difference of no small importance: have a booster circuit. When you buy an amp you know that about one-third of the space is dedicated to the voltage booster.
The function of the voltage booster is to increase the voltage from the battery to a level such as to allow strong currents in the power stages, this task it plays a particular said circuit inverter that, to the best amplifiers, also performs the function of voltage stabilizer.
the advantages of having a stabilized output voltage and the boosted can intuit by listening, especially at sustained volumes and in demanding load conditions for the car battery.
I made the promise to focus your attention on the importance of the amplifier power supply, in this task to choose the appropriate cables is critical.
Let's order and we see the basic steps to mount an amplifier.
Positive mainstream power cable to be connected to the battery with ADEQUATE PROTECTION OF FUSE.
First, we have to decide which section should have such a cable, and this one of those cases in which exaggeration is not bad, but because there is' a limit to everything, let's see what should be the minimum.
to decide which cable to buy, we need to know the maximum current consumption of the amplifier or its RMS power, take for example an amp 4chx45 watts RMS which has a maximum current of 'absorption of 27A, for the calculation of the section of the cable can do the following operation 27: 2.5 = 10,8mm (sez.cavo); or 180X0,06 = 10,8mm, where 180 are the total watts RMS into 4 ohms and 0.06 fixed number.
Cable Negative current eating, to be connected to the car body at a point close to the amplifier so that the cable length as short as possible.
Choose well the point where a hole, especially making sure that you do not communicate with ' exterior and which does not go to pierce what there is' below, for example, the fuel tank or pipes of the braking system; very often, if you look carefully under the trunk linings, there are mass points scored for the automotive electrical system, for our purpose are perfect.
For the section, that is what I said earlier. Scoured the point where you will connect the negative cable to be terminated with eyelet.
Do not remove the mass from the same screws that secure the amplifier!
The speaker cables are chosen to mind the quality of copper used and the number of wires that make up the braid. A copper cable, OFC Treaty in the absence of oxygen, will be stable over time ensuring the conductivity.
The presence of a greater number of microwires, the same section, allows a higher conductivity, then a more prompt response to electrical transients. For speaker cables section in most cases can be fine sections 0.5, 1, 2 and 4 mm respectively tweeter, midrange, woofer, and subwoofer.
The arrangement and fixing of the amplifiers can be done in many ways, depending on the time and patience you will want to dedicate, I will tell you what to avoid :
- under the car coatings where air circulation is poor
- under the dashboard next to control units and electrical system and generally in all those points and parts of the car where the amplifier mounting and unstable.
Personally, I prefer to exploit the dead space of the trunk: I have the feeling of not being alone! Fixed and fueled our amplifier, it just has to transfer the low level from the car to the final signal (final is a common way to define an amplifier).
As you know the low-level signals, are none other than our favorite songs. These signals are commonly referred to BF (low frequency) because, indeed, the frequencies of the audible sound spectrum are located in the lower part of the electromagnetic waves: for those who have a very good hearing (children) from 20 Hz to 20,000 Hz. To transfer these signals will use a BF cord, known as cord pre-out.
In fact, the signal flowing in the cable is "pre-amplified", that is, at very low voltage values that are measured in Vpp (volt peak-to-peak). For convenience, we will call them "pre" signal.
Pre-signals, unfortunately, I suffer all conceivable interference, and by car, there are plenty! You want us to, we chose the hard road to get to the High Fidelity. However, returning to our pre-loved signals, the important thing is to put them free of disturbance and to do two things are essential:
- Use a pre-out extension of good quality and finished with RCA connectors of good quality. And 'my belief that playing in the car, to the inherent problems to the environment listening, cannot benefit from pre exorbitant cost that ultimately cables, can only get better details cannot be perceived.
- It is important that the cable has a good shielding in the close mesh which, in some, can become double by the addition of a "foil type" film. As regards with RCA, just rely on common sense and try to adapt them to the chosen cable.
Spread the pre cord so that it is not closer than 10 cm. from interference sources that drive are typically constituted by the presence of electrical wires.
Generally, the space under the knock-heel on the passenger side is more mackerel of electric cables and is the most suitable for roll out the extension pre-out.
A control that is always present in every final, except in certain defined Esoteric is the adjustment of the output level or gain control (gain) if you prefer, volume.
Contrary to what one might assume "slamming at most" the volume, does not lead to achieving greater sound pressure undistorted: you may find yourself with the radio volume to 50% and warn that the beep is already mixed.
A good and simple system, as suggested in certain manuals, to adjust the output level is as follows: bring the volume of the car radio 80% of its maximum and then adjust the amplifier level control until you hear a slightly distorted sound, then reduce by just enough to make the distortion disappear.
By the way, you can also read How to install a car amplifier for more info.
