THE TERMS & SYMBOLS THAT NEED TO KNOW ABOUT CAR AMPLIFIER

The terms and symbols that need to know and use when choosing an amplifier.

Power

One of the main characteristics of all car amplifiers. Sometimes nominal (RMS) and maximum (PMPO). As a rule, all the amplifiers have a number on the body. What appears on the shell of the amplifier is usually out of science fiction - it is the total maximum power of all channels is distorted, to believe this figure is impossible since this is not anything but a publicity stunt to lure the buyer manufacturer. In the data sheet or on the box in the characteristics of the rated power available - power that must be believed if it is listed with due THD (<0.1%) and at a voltage of 14.4 V. At maximum power especially pay attention is not necessary, because the Power is from the bulldozer. Very cool it is when supplied with power is a certificate, which indicated the factory stood a real power amplifier with serial numbers. Such measurements can be seen in Alpine products, MTX, Rockford Fosgate, and other major manufacturers. It is also worth knowing that if the majority of firms deliberately overstate the power, such as the manufacturer DLS intentionally underestimates her in performance, according to the total power amplifier take place in a lower category of the car audio competition, make it easier to win them.

Crossover

Today, almost any power amplifier has a built-in crossover. It allows you to trim the frequency, is amplified below (HPF - High Pass Filter - High Pass Filter) and leave only the treble or top (LPF - Low Pass Filter - Low Pass Filter) and leave only the low frequencies. Most modern amplifiers have a continuous adjustment of the cutoff frequency. There are also switches that allow you to multiply the frequency by 10 (X10) and thus carry on-channel amplification without using an external crossover acoustics. For example Eton ECC 500.4, Audison SR 4. Also very cool that you can change the slope of the recession cut - 6, 12, 24 dB.

Grand Bass, Bass, Bass Boost

It is usually denoted by regulation, which allows for the enhanced bass component of the sound. Current Connection for subwoofers. Well, when this filter allows you to select the frequency at which it is possible to enhance the bass, and not simply to strengthen it and smoothly in decibels.

High Level, High Input

Input a high-level signal. It is used in systems with a head unit or radio when no line outputs. Connecting on it is not the best option because You will receive the volume of the audio head unit amplifier distortion. It is used only when no other option.There are amplifiers that can start working on the signal presence on such access, that is not to be sought in a regular car Remote system for them.

Bridge

Bridged connection. Usually indicated by brackets at the terminals to connect speakers to the amplifier. It gives summed power gain of 2 amplifier channels. It is used as a rule for connecting a subwoofer.

Line Input

Input for line conductors on which the power is fed to the signal from the car.

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Helpful tips and advice when choosing an amplifier.

When choosing a power amplifier in the first place I recommend to pay attention to the manufacturer. There are many already legendary firms that produce amplifiers in a car for more than one decade and have gained in this field, a well-deserved fame. Remember that an unknown brand is unlikely to you than surprise, as if he was not praised in the sale. And to listen to the amplifier in the car hardly any car audio shop agrees.

For amplifier speakers pay more attention to the sound quality by selecting the amplifier to the subwoofer output is more important. Very good when the powerful monoblock has the built-in fan and remote volume control, as in the high-level input - very convenient when connecting to a standard head or tape that does not adjust the subwoofer volume.

However, do you thinking to buy a quality car amp? then just click here and check out this. it's one of the powerful amp in the market today. 

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Where most established (installed) power amplifiers in the car.

Power amplifiers often are placed in the trunk - in the rear seat backrest, under the car seat on the rear parcel shelf in the cellar, on the trim panel of the luggage compartment in the corner. During the installation of the amplifier is not necessary to refer to those installers who can not configure it. Setting the amplifier - the procedure is not complicated, but always necessary and if the installer can adjust the power, then there is a great probability that he will set him wrong, as a result, you will not get him the desired effect.

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THE MULTI AMPLIFICATION

The alternative to passive crossovers is the use of an active crossover or electronic

The active crossover typically takes one or two inputs coming from the source and returns output, as many signals are the ways of the system to be amplified. Most Active crossovers are configurable within certain limits. A.D. eg. we can have a 4-way crossover + subwoofer but we can also set up 3-way + subwoofer, but there are many other variables to be considered case by case. All possible configurations require the need to use as many amps are the ways that we are using. Returning to the example above, if we set up a 4-way + sub will need 5 amps and in the case of the 3-way + sub it will be necessary 4. Of course, you can also use 4-channel amplifier, but without built-in crossover or crossover excludable.

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What does the use of active crossover

The possibility to vary, within certain limits and at any time, the crossover frequencies between the different speakers. Of course, this does not mean that every single day we have to change the settings according to our mood! Rather, it is facilitated the step of tuning even when, after a short period of listening, we wish to refine the timbre of the system.

The ability to use specialized amplifiers on the audio range that will be delegated to them. And 'common opinion, that each amplifier has its stamp and is capable of dealing with the best ease a part of the audio spectrum. Dividing the audio spectrum into three main parts, high-end, medium and low; It can be a winning choice to assign to each of the ranges considered an amplifier suited to reproduce it. Eg.Harman Kardon for midrange, Soundstream for high and Zapco range to low range, finally a nice HV16 for the subwoofer.

It 'easy to understand that choosing "active" involves a greater outlay of economic resources, but I want to reiterate a pure audiophile concept: active configurations in the quality of the final result depends on the choices made during the design phase.

In conclusion, the choice of the active configuration is valid but you must choose with skill all system components do not the last speaker that, indeed, are the choice of greatest difficulty. However, if you are thinking to buy double din car head unit then you can check this article. https://carmusiclab.com/best-double-din-head-unit/

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HOW TO CONNECT AMPLIFIER TO BATTERY

An aftermarket amplifier needs an established connection to the vehicle battery for power. The battery connecting the cable to the amplifier should travel from the engine compartment to the amplifier location. You will need to use a path through the firewall to the vehicle power cable. Some vehicles will have a path inside the cabin already available. Route the power cord with the wires that already. For vehicles that there is no available path inside the car, you must create a new opening in the firewall.

instructions

• Lift the bonnet of the vehicle to access the battery.

• Loosen the bolts holding the positive and negative battery cables to their respective post battery terminal with a wrench or pliers.

• Remove the negative battery cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Lay the cable away from the post until the amplifier is installed.

• Place the ring of the amplifier wiring kit terminal on the positive terminal post of the battery.Tighten the bolt on the post to secure the cable ring terminal and the positive terminal of the battery.

• Remove the fuse from the fuse compartment door on the ring terminal. The fuse must stay out of its slot until the unit has been completely installed and connected.

• Connect the power cord from the amplifier wiring kit to the ring terminal.

• Plug the power cord the passenger compartment of the vehicle through the internal firewall. Use a voice established through the firewall or create a new one using a drill. Insert a rubber ring at any new hole in your firewall. When you create a new opening in the cabin, choose the side of the engine compartment that will lead to the driver's side of the vehicle interior.

• Replace the negative battery cable to the negative terminal of the battery once the amplifier installed. Tighten the cable fixing bolt to the post with the key. Replace the fuse of the amplifier ring terminal in the fuse box as the last step of the amplifier installation process.

Tips & Warnings

• Be sure to route the power cord and the signal cable from the stereo vehicle on opposite sides of the vehicle.
• Consult your vehicle's repair manual for directions on how to hide the power cord (and signal cables) under the vehicle carpet.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable before removing or installing the components electrically connected to the vehicle to prevent shock and / or damage to the components or other parts of the electrical system of the vehicle.

To get more information click here. 

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INSTALLING CAR AMPLIFIERS

Because the amplifiers do not use the same 12 volts, you ask? Yes, but with a difference of no small importance: have a booster circuit. When you buy an amp you know that about one-third of the space is dedicated to the voltage booster. 

The function of the voltage booster is to increase the voltage from the battery to a level such as to allow strong currents in the power stages, this task it plays a particular said circuit inverter that, to the best amplifiers, also performs the function of voltage stabilizer. 

the advantages of having a stabilized output voltage and the boosted can intuit by listening, especially at sustained volumes and in demanding load conditions for the car battery.

I made the promise to focus your attention on the importance of the amplifier power supply, in this task to choose the appropriate cables is critical.

Let's order and we see the basic steps to mount an amplifier.

Positive mainstream power cable to be connected to the battery with ADEQUATE PROTECTION OF FUSE. 

First, we have to decide which section should have such a cable, and this one of those cases in which exaggeration is not bad, but because there is' a limit to everything, let's see what should be the minimum. 

to decide which cable to buy, we need to know the maximum current consumption of the amplifier or its RMS power, take for example an amp 4chx45 watts RMS which has a maximum current of 'absorption of 27A, for the calculation of the section of the cable can do the following operation 27: 2.5 = 10,8mm (sez.cavo); or 180X0,06 = 10,8mm, where 180 are the total watts RMS into 4 ohms and 0.06 fixed number. 

Cable Negative current eating, to be connected to the car body at a point close to the amplifier so that the cable length as short as possible. 

Choose well the point where a hole, especially making sure that you do not communicate with ' exterior and which does not go to pierce what there is' below, for example, the fuel tank or pipes of the braking system; very often, if you look carefully under the trunk linings, there are mass points scored for the automotive electrical system, for our purpose are perfect. 

For the section, that is what I said earlier. Scoured the point where you will connect the negative cable to be terminated with eyelet. 

Do not remove the mass from the same screws that secure the amplifier!

The speaker cables are chosen to mind the quality of copper used and the number of wires that make up the braid. A copper cable, OFC Treaty in the absence of oxygen, will be stable over time ensuring the conductivity. 

The presence of a greater number of microwires, the same section, allows a higher conductivity, then a more prompt response to electrical transients. For speaker cables section in most cases can be fine sections 0.5, 1, 2 and 4 mm respectively tweeter, midrange, woofer, and subwoofer.

The arrangement and fixing of the amplifiers can be done in many ways, depending on the time and patience you will want to dedicate, I will tell you what to avoid : 

- under the car coatings where air circulation is poor 

- under the dashboard next to control units and electrical system and generally in all those points and parts of the car where the amplifier mounting and unstable.

Personally, I prefer to exploit the dead space of the trunk: I have the feeling of not being alone! Fixed and fueled our amplifier, it just has to transfer the low level from the car to the final signal (final is a common way to define an amplifier).

As you know the low-level signals, are none other than our favorite songs. These signals are commonly referred to BF (low frequency) because, indeed, the frequencies of the audible sound spectrum are located in the lower part of the electromagnetic waves: for those who have a very good hearing (children) from 20 Hz to 20,000 Hz. To transfer these signals will use a BF cord, known as cord pre-out.

In fact, the signal flowing in the cable is "pre-amplified", that is, at very low voltage values that are measured in Vpp (volt peak-to-peak). For convenience, we will call them "pre" signal.

Pre-signals, unfortunately, I suffer all conceivable interference, and by car, there are plenty! You want us to, we chose the hard road to get to the High Fidelity. However, returning to our pre-loved signals, the important thing is to put them free of disturbance and to do two things are essential: 

- Use a pre-out extension of good quality and finished with RCA connectors of good quality. And 'my belief that playing in the car, to the inherent problems to the environment listening, cannot benefit from pre exorbitant cost that ultimately cables, can only get better details cannot be perceived. 

- It is important that the cable has a good shielding in the close mesh which, in some, can become double by the addition of a "foil type" film. As regards with RCA, just rely on common sense and try to adapt them to the chosen cable.

Spread the pre cord so that it is not closer than 10 cm. from interference sources that drive are typically constituted by the presence of electrical wires. 

Generally, the space under the knock-heel on the passenger side is more mackerel of electric cables and is the most suitable for roll out the extension pre-out.

A control that is always present in every final, except in certain defined Esoteric is the adjustment of the output level or gain control (gain) if you prefer, volume. 

Contrary to what one might assume "slamming at most" the volume, does not lead to achieving greater sound pressure undistorted: you may find yourself with the radio volume to 50% and warn that the beep is already mixed.

A good and simple system, as suggested in certain manuals, to adjust the output level is as follows: bring the volume of the car radio 80% of its maximum and then adjust the amplifier level control until you hear a slightly distorted sound, then reduce by just enough to make the distortion disappear. 

By the way, you can also read How to install a car amplifier for more info. 

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Amplifiers for cars: selection guide!

Choose the car amplifier suitable to our stereo system is not a trivial thing. For we must consider several factors, including the use we want to do, the type of system we want to accomplish and the sum to be spent available.

The main choice to buy it concerns the place of purchase: it is definitely preferable to a specialist shop than the mall.

The design for the amplification

Before then purchasing dell 'car amplifier , it is good to have in mind the stereo system design. It 'true that today's technology allows us to listen to music anywhere, all you need is a tablet or a smartphone and use one of the many music playback programs (. Eg Amazon Cloud Player ), but in the car, we can opt for an amplifier that the best musical performance.

The choice can vary between a system with integrated amplifier, or a system with separate systems for the front face and for the subwoofer, or a three-way model, two of which are dedicated to the front face, and one dedicated to the subwoofer.

The best solution in terms of quality is certainly the second, but you have to have a large enough budget. At the brand level, it is important to choose among the best in the industry, such as Pioneer, Rockford Fosgate, JBL, Kenwood etc ...

Integrated car amplifier

This solution is certainly much cheaper, but it is not very recommended because the same device would boost two elements, subwoofers, and speakers , with different characteristics, including the size of the coils. For this will suffer different loads of power, sometimes unnecessary and excessive times for that type of device.

Separate amplifiers

Dedicate one of only the subwoofer is much more desirable to get the most from your system. The main characteristics which make reference in the selection are above all the power, which must be equal to that supported by the speakers, less an about 10%. The distortion must be less than 0.05%, the highest signal to noise ratio of 90 dB, and finally, the frequency response in a range of 15 Hz to 35,000 Hz.

Sound fundamentals

Internally, for a car amplifier, it is composed of various elements, active defined, which are connected between them through a series of electronic components such as capacitors, inductors, and resistors. Each of these goes to make up one stage, and each stage is powered from the previous cascade, from a DC voltage source.

Classes of amplifiers

Based on the way you work, every boost car will be part of a particular class. 

Class A is the best, and the Class A system allowing the transmission of the sound signal generating very low distortion at the expense of excessive heat you go to generate. 

Class B contains devices that shoot to the very high power signal, but with excessive signal noise. 

the other existing classes are AB, which seeks to synthesize the positive characteristics of previous stages; Class C is not recommended to amplify the low frequencies due to the strong disturbing signal which would generate. Class D integrates digital circuits.

Depending on the model we choose, we are in a number of technical features that you should know to avoid taking a product that does not meet the car requirements.

Audio sensitivity

The sensitivity is related to input, ie it is the voltage required to be applied to correctly input terminals so that the amplifier works.

Nominal power

The rated power is detected on the output channel when it is uploaded to a base equal to 4 ohms. This power measurement is expressed in watts, and always refers to a distortion contained in a frequency detection signal is usually equal to 1 kHz (something Watt RMS).

When buying car amplifier, it is good to read that the power given as output is expressed in watts RMS and not in other types of wattage such as Watt-peak or peak watts music. In fact, Watt RMS correspond to 8 times the watts peak to peak and 2 times the watts Musical.

Other features to consider when buying is the ratio of signal to noise (expressed in microvolts or in decibels) and the frequency response.

MOSFET circuit

Most of the amplifiers require a MOSFET power supply circuit. This particular type of circuit used to output to a speaker a power dose in case of voltage drops that may occur in the car, due to the particular structure of the car power supply circuit itself.

However, there are many sites in online which provide the comprehensive guide of best amplifiers. We recommended to you read this 5 BEST AMPLIFIERS FOR CAR THAT YOU CAN BUY TODAY it's a highly comprehensive guide of best car amplifiers. 

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